Can All Types of Jewellery Be Replated?

Jewellery naturally loses its shine or changes colour over time, particularly when plated. Whether your collection consists of fine jewellery or costume pieces, you might wonder if replating can restore their original beauty. In this guide, we will explore what jewellery replating involves, how the process works, and whether all types can be replated.

Understanding Jewellery Plating

What is Jewellery Plating?

Jewellery plating is a process where a piece of jewellery, made from one type of metal, is coated with a thin layer of another metal—often a precious one like gold, silver, or rhodium. This process is done to improve the appearance of the jewellery, give it a luxurious finish, or increase its durability.

For example, gold plating can give a jewellery item a lustrous yellow-gold appearance, even if the base material is a more affordable metal such as copper or brass. The result is a more polished, high-end look at a lower cost than solid gold.

Fine Jewellery vs. Costume Jewellery

It’s important to distinguish between fine jewellery and costume jewellery when considering replating. These two categories of jewellery differ in terms of materials, longevity, and ease of maintenance.

• Fine Jewellery: Fine jewellery is made entirely from precious metals like gold, platinum, or silver. Sometimes, even these pieces are plated to enhance their colour or durability. For example, white gold is often rhodium-plated to give it a bright, shiny finish.
• Costume Jewellery: Costume jewellery, by contrast, is usually made from base metals such as copper, brass, or alloys. These pieces are often plated with precious metals like gold or silver to create a more expensive look. Over time, the plating wears off, revealing the cheaper base metals underneath, which may tarnish or discolour.

Both fine and costume jewellery can be replated, but the ease and longevity of the replating process depend on the type of metal used in the jewellery.

Can All Types of Jewellery Be Replated?

Replating Fine Jewellery

Fine jewellery is generally easier to replate, especially pieces made from precious metals like gold, silver, or platinum. Replating is a common maintenance practice for fine jewellery, particularly for pieces that have lost their original lustre or need a colour refresh.

For example, a white gold ring that has yellowed over time can be restored by rhodium plating, which adds a fresh, shiny white finish. Some owners of fine jewellery also choose to replate pieces if they want to change their appearance—such as switching a yellow gold ring to white gold or vice versa.

Replating Costume Jewellery

Costume jewellery presents a more complex challenge when it comes to replating. Since it is made from cheaper base metals like copper or brass, there are extra steps needed to ensure the plating adheres properly.

Before replating, jewellers often apply a buffer layer of nickel or palladium between the base metal and the precious metal being added. This prevents contamination of the precious metal during the plating process and helps the new metal bond effectively to the jewellery’s surface. However, certain base metals, such as zinc, can be particularly difficult to replate due to their chemical properties. Replating zinc-based jewellery may require specialized equipment and expertise, which not all jewellers possess.

In some cases, it may be more cost-effective to replicate the costume jewellery in fine metal rather than replate it. This provides a more durable and long-lasting alternative, especially for cherished pieces.

How Does the Replating Process Work?

Step-by-Step Breakdown of Electroplating

Replating jewellery generally involves a process known as electroplating. This method uses an electrical current to bond a thin layer of metal (such as gold or silver) onto the jewellery’s surface. Here’s how the process works:

1. Cleaning: Before any plating can occur, the jewellery must be thoroughly cleaned to remove any oils, dirt, or old plating. The surface is polished to ensure the new layer of metal will adhere properly.
2. Buffer Layer Application: For costume jewellery, a buffer layer (usually nickel or palladium) is applied. This prevents contamination of the precious metal plating solution and helps the new layer bond effectively.
3. Submerging the Jewellery: The piece is submerged in a solution containing the desired precious metal, such as gold, silver, or rhodium. Electrical currents are passed through the solution, which causes the metal ions to bond to the jewellery’s surface.
4. Polishing: Once the plating is complete, the jewellery is polished to bring out its shine and smooth the surface. This ensures the piece looks brand new with a brilliant finish.

Types of Plating Metals

Several types of metals can be used for jewellery plating, depending on the desired finish:

• Gold Plating: One of the most common options, gold plating gives the jewellery a rich, shiny finish. The thickness of the gold layer can vary, and a thicker layer provides more durability.
• Silver Plating: Silver plating adds a bright, reflective finish, commonly used in costume jewellery. While less durable than gold, it’s a cost-effective way to enhance a piece’s appearance.
• Rhodium Plating: This metal is often used for plating white gold or silver. Rhodium is highly durable and adds extra shine and scratch resistance, making it popular for rings and other daily-wear pieces.
• Rose Gold Plating: Rose gold plating is achieved by adding copper to gold, which gives the jewellery a warm, pinkish hue. This is a trendy option, especially for modern jewellery designs.

What Types of Jewellery Cannot Be Replated?

Jewellery That Cannot Be Replated

While many types of jewellery can be replated, there are some exceptions. Certain materials, particularly zinc, are notoriously difficult to replate due to their chemical properties. Zinc reacts differently during the plating process, and without the right expertise and equipment, it can lead to poor results. As a result, many jewellers may refuse to work on zinc-based jewellery.

For costume jewellery made from base metals like brass, copper, or bronze, replating can be more challenging. These metals can contaminate the plating solutions, so jewellers must apply a buffer layer (usually nickel or palladium) to prevent this contamination and ensure the plating adheres correctly. Without this extra step, the plating could easily peel off or tarnish.

In cases where replating is not an option, especially with zinc or highly tarnished pieces, you might consider replicating the jewellery in a fine metal such as gold or silver. This can be a more durable, long-term solution for pieces with sentimental value or unique designs that you want to preserve.

Cost and Longevity of Replating

Cost of Replating Jewellery

The cost of replating jewellery varies depending on several factors, including the type of metal being used, the size of the piece, and the desired thickness of the plating. Here’s a general breakdown of costs:

• Gold Plating: Replating jewellery with gold typically costs between $30 to $100 per piece. The price can rise depending on the thickness of the gold layer. A thin layer of around 0.5 microns might be relatively affordable, while a thicker layer of 2.5 or 3 microns could cost up to $300, particularly for larger pieces like bracelets or necklaces.
• Silver Plating: Silver plating is often more affordable than gold plating, with costs ranging from $20 to $50. However, like gold plating, the cost will vary depending on the thickness of the plating and the complexity of the piece.
• Rhodium Plating: Rhodium, often used to replate white gold or silver jewellery, typically costs between $30 and $100 per piece. Rhodium is considered more expensive due to its durability and brilliant shine, making it a popular choice for fine jewellery.

When considering the cost of replating, it’s also important to factor in the condition of your jewellery. If your piece needs extensive cleaning or repairs before replating can occur, this will add to the overall cost. Costume jewellery, in particular, may require an additional buffer layer of nickel or palladium, which can increase the price further.

How Long Does Replating Last?

The longevity of your replated jewellery will depend on several factors, including how often you wear it, the thickness of the plating, and how well you care for the piece. In general, you can expect the following:

• Gold and Silver Plating: If you wear your jewellery daily, the plating will usually last between one and two years before it begins to wear down. If the piece is worn less frequently or is plated with a thicker layer of metal, it may last three to five years or longer.
• Rhodium Plating: Rhodium tends to last longer than both gold and silver, often maintaining its shiny and durable finish for up to five years, even with regular wear. This makes rhodium a popular option for rings and other jewellery that is exposed to daily wear and tear.

To prolong the life of your replated jewellery, avoid exposing it to harsh chemicals, lotions, or water. Storing your jewellery properly in a dry, padded container and cleaning it with a soft cloth after wearing it will also help maintain the plating for longer.

Plating Techniques and Materials

How the Electroplating Process Works

Electroplating is the most widely used method for replating jewellery. The process uses an electric current to deposit a thin layer of metal onto the surface of the jewellery. Below is a step-by-step explanation of how electroplating works:

1. Cleaning the Jewellery: Before any plating can begin, the jewellery must be thoroughly cleaned. This step removes any dirt, oil, or old plating that could prevent the new layer from adhering properly. The jeweller often uses special chemicals to clean the surface, followed by polishing to smooth out any rough spots.
2. Applying a Buffer Layer: For costume jewellery, a buffer layer of nickel or palladium is applied. This buffer helps prevent contamination of the plating tank and ensures that the new metal adheres correctly to the base metal.
3. Submerging in the Plating Tank: After cleaning and preparing the piece, the jewellery is submerged in a tank containing a solution of the chosen precious metal (such as gold, silver, or rhodium). The jeweller uses an electrical current to cause the metal particles in the solution to bond with the jewellery’s surface.
4. Final Polishing: Once the plating is complete, the jewellery is polished and buffed to bring out its shine. This final step gives the replated piece a smooth, high-quality finish.

Types of Metals Used in Plating

Several different metals can be used to plate jewellery, depending on the desired appearance and durability of the finished piece:

• Gold: Gold plating is one of the most common choices, especially for both fine and costume jewellery. It adds a luxurious, yellow finish and can vary in thickness based on the expected wear of the piece.
• Silver: Silver plating adds a bright, reflective finish and is often used for costume jewellery. While silver is less expensive than gold, it offers an attractive and durable option for those looking to replate.
• Rhodium: Rhodium is primarily used to plate white gold and silver jewellery. It adds durability, prevents tarnishing, and gives the jewellery an extra shine. Rhodium is popular for rings and other fine jewellery pieces that are worn frequently.
• Rose Gold: Rose gold plating is created by mixing gold with copper, giving the jewellery a pinkish hue. This option has gained popularity in recent years, especially in modern and trendy designs.

What Types of Jewellery Cannot Be Replated?

Jewellery That Cannot Be Replated

While many types of jewellery can undergo the replating process, there are certain materials and situations where replating is either not possible or not recommended. One of the main challenges arises with jewellery made from zinc. Zinc is a reactive metal that complicates the plating process, often requiring advanced techniques and machinery that many jewellers do not have. As a result, it is difficult to replate zinc-based jewellery, and most jewellers will refuse the job due to the risk of unsatisfactory results.

In addition, costume jewellery made from base metals like brass, bronze, or copper can also pose challenges. These metals are prone to tarnishing and corrosion, and they can contaminate the plating solution if not properly prepped with a buffer layer. This additional step of adding a nickel or palladium layer between the base metal and the precious metal adds complexity to the process and is necessary to ensure proper adhesion of the plating. Without this layer, the precious metal coating will not last long.

In some cases, it may be more practical to replicate the design in fine metal if replating isn’t possible or would be too costly. For instance, if you have a costume piece with sentimental value, replicating it in gold or silver will give you a longer-lasting version that doesn’t require frequent maintenance.

Practical Tips for Replating Jewellery

Choosing the Right Jeweller

If you’ve decided to have your jewellery replated, choosing the right jeweller is crucial. Replating is a delicate process, especially for costume jewellery, and not all jewellers have the expertise or equipment to handle complex replating jobs.

Here’s what to consider when selecting a jeweller for replating:

1. Look for Experience: Seek out jewellers who have specific experience in jewellery replating. Ask about their previous work and what metals they commonly replate, especially if your piece involves challenging materials like brass or zinc.
2. Ask for Recommendations: Word-of-mouth recommendations can be helpful. If you know others who have had jewellery replated, ask about their experiences and which jewellers they recommend.
3. Inquire About the Process: A reputable jeweller should be able to explain the replating process to you, including how they clean and prepare the piece, the type of metal they’ll use for plating, and the expected thickness of the new plating. Ask about the buffer layer if your piece is costume jewellery.
4. Check for Customer Reviews: Before committing, check online reviews or ask for testimonials from past customers. Positive feedback from previous clients can give you peace of mind that your jewellery is in good hands.

Things to Consider Before Replating

While replating can restore the appearance of your jewellery, it’s important to consider several factors before deciding to proceed:

• Condition of the Jewellery: Replating can improve a piece’s appearance, but it won’t fix structural issues. If your jewellery has damage like broken clasps, bent prongs, or missing stones, these issues will need to be repaired separately before the replating process.
• Frequency of Wear: If the piece is something you wear daily, a thicker plating layer (2.5 to 3 microns) is recommended to ensure longevity. Thinner layers are more suitable for occasional wear pieces that are less exposed to daily friction and wear.
• Cost vs. Value: Replating is more cost-effective for fine jewellery, but for inexpensive costume pieces, it may not be worth the investment, especially if replating costs approach the value of the item itself. In these cases, it might make more sense to replace the piece or invest in new fine jewellery.
• Metal Allergies: Nickel is commonly used as a buffer layer between base metals and precious metal coatings. If you have a known allergy to nickel, make sure to inform your jeweller so they can adjust the process accordingly.

How Long Does the Replating Process Take?

The time it takes to replate a piece of jewellery depends on several factors, including the type of metal being used, the size of the piece, and whether any repairs are needed beforehand. For most simple replating jobs, the process can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days.

Here are typical timelines based on the type of replating:

• Gold Plating: Gold plating jobs typically take between 1 to 3 days. Smaller pieces like rings or earrings may be completed faster, while larger or more intricate items like bracelets or necklaces may take longer.
• Silver Plating: Silver plating is similar to gold plating in terms of timing. Most silver replating jobs are completed within 1 to 3 days, though the complexity of the piece may affect the turnaround time.
• Rhodium Plating: Rhodium plating is slightly more involved, especially for rings with intricate designs or settings. Expect the process to take between 3 and 7 days, depending on the size and detail of the jewellery.

It’s always a good idea to ask your jeweller for an estimated completion time based on the specifics of your jewellery.

Safety Considerations for Replating Jewellery

Impact on Gemstones and Pearls

One concern when replating jewellery is the potential effect on any gemstones or pearls incorporated into the piece. Gemstones, especially delicate ones like emeralds or opals, can be sensitive to the chemicals used in the replating process, while pearls, being organic, are highly vulnerable to damage from exposure to harsh chemicals.

To protect these elements, jewellers typically take the following precautions:

• Removing Stones: In many cases, the jeweller will remove gemstones or pearls before starting the replating process. This protects the stones from being exposed to any harmful chemicals and ensures they remain intact.
• Masking the Stones: If removing the stones is not feasible, the jeweller may apply a protective mask to shield the gemstones or pearls from coming into contact with the plating solution.

It’s essential to inform your jeweller about any concerns related to the stones in your jewellery before the process begins.

Metal Allergies

If you have allergies to certain metals, especially nickel, it’s critical to inform your jeweller before having your jewellery replated. Nickel is often used as a buffer layer in costume jewellery, but it can cause skin reactions for individuals who are sensitive to it. In such cases, jewellers may be able to use alternative metals like palladium or platinum as the buffer layer to avoid triggering allergic reactions.

Gold and rhodium plating are generally safer choices for people with metal allergies, but it’s always best to consult with your jeweller to ensure they are aware of your specific sensitivities.

Will Replating Add Value to Your Jewellery?

Replating your jewellery can significantly enhance its aesthetic appeal, making it look as good as new, but it’s important to note that replating does not increase the intrinsic value of the piece. The monetary value of your jewellery will continue to be based on its original materials, design, and craftsmanship.

That being said, replating can help maintain the value of fine jewellery by preserving its appearance and preventing further deterioration. For high-end pieces made from gold, silver, or platinum, regular maintenance, including replating, can ensure they retain their beauty and durability over time.

In contrast, replating costume jewellery will not increase its resale value, but it can extend the life of a beloved piece and improve its visual appeal. Ultimately, replating should be viewed as a way to refresh your jewellery’s look rather than as a means to increase its market value.

Conclusion

Replating jewellery can be an excellent way to restore its appearance, extend its life, and make it look new again. However, not all types of jewellery are equally easy to replate, and it’s important to consider several factors before proceeding with the process.

Can All Types of Jewellery Be Replated?

The answer to whether all types of jewellery can be replated is it depends.

• Fine jewellery made from precious metals like gold, silver, or platinum can generally be replated with ease. Rhodium plating for white gold or refreshing gold-plated pieces is a common practice, and it can restore the piece’s shine and longevity. Fine jewellery is also more likely to benefit from the durability that replating offers, making it a great option for maintenance.
• Costume jewellery, on the other hand, can present more challenges. While it’s possible to replate pieces made from base metals like brass or copper, these often require an intermediary buffer layer (such as nickel or palladium) to prevent contamination during the replating process. Certain metals, like zinc, are particularly difficult to replate, and you may find that some jewellers refuse the job. In these cases, replicating the piece in a more durable fine metal may be a better long-term investment.

Things to Keep in Mind Before Replating

Before deciding to have your jewellery replated, it’s essential to weigh the cost, potential risks, and long-term durability of the replating process:

1. Choose a reputable jeweller who has experience in the specific type of replating you need, and ask questions about their process.
2. Consider the condition of your jewellery. Replating will not fix structural issues, so ensure that any necessary repairs are completed first.
3. Think about the cost vs. value. Replating costume jewellery can be costly, and it may not always be worth it, especially if the piece is inexpensive to begin with.
4. Mind the materials. Certain metals, like zinc, are difficult to work with, and replating these pieces might not be possible.

Final Advice

If you’re looking to replate your jewellery, here are the key takeaways to remember:

• Fine jewellery is easier to replate and generally worth the investment for long-term durability.
• Costume jewellery can be replated, but the process is more complex and may not always be worth the cost, especially for less valuable pieces.
• Replating does not add monetary value to your jewellery but can help maintain or enhance its aesthetic appeal.
• Choose a reputable jeweller, and ensure that they have the right tools and expertise to handle your jewellery, especially if it’s made from challenging materials.

By keeping these considerations in mind, you can make an informed decision about whether replating is the right option for your jewellery. Ultimately, replating offers a cost-effective way to breathe new life into both fine and costume jewellery, making it a worthwhile option for those looking to restore the beauty of their cherished pieces.